Why Your Furnace Ignites But Blows No Air

If your furnace comes on but blower does not work, here's what might be happening:

You know that sinking feeling: your furnace ignites with a reassuring whoosh, but the expected warm air never arrives through your vents. Your home stays cold while your furnace seems to be working—except for one critical component. When your furnace comes on but blower does not activate, you're dealing with a common but frustrating heating system failure that leaves you in the cold.

The blower fan is the essential component that circulates heated air from your furnace throughout your home. Without it, warm air remains trapped inside your furnace while your living spaces stay chilly. This problem affects thousands of homeowners each winter, particularly in older systems where components have begun to wear out.

I'm Allen Chenault, Owner and Founder of AC's Heating & Air LLC, and with over two decadses of experience in the HVAC industry, I've diagnosed and resolved countless cases where the furnace comes on but blower does not function, helping Central Florida homeowners restore comfort to their homes quickly and safely.

Easy furnace comes on but blower does not word list:- Furnace blow out, - Heat not blowing out of vents in house, - Electric furnace not getting hot

How a Furnace Blower Actually Works

Ever wonder what's happening inside your furnace when you hear it kick on? When your furnace comes on but blower does not start, understanding this dance of components can help you pinpoint the problem. Think of your furnace like a relay team - each member has a specific job that must happen in sequence.

Your heating journey begins when your thermostat calls for warmth. The furnace ignites and heats up the heat exchanger - that's the metal component that transfers heat from the flames to your indoor air. It's like the middleman between fire and comfort!

In a properly working system, your blower motor waits patiently for about 90 seconds to 3 minutes after ignition. This isn't a malfunction - it's by design! This delay prevents that uncomfortable blast of cold air while giving the heat exchanger time to warm up. Smart, right?

Several key components orchestrate this warming symphony:

Your control board acts as the brain, processing signals from your thermostat and coordinating the entire heating sequence. The blower motor provides the muscle, powering the fan that moves air throughout your home. That motor gets its initial jolt of energy from the capacitor - think of it as a battery that provides the extra boost needed to get things spinning. Meanwhile, the fan limit switch works as the timekeeper, monitoring temperatures and signaling when the blower should turn on and off.

When any of these team members fails to show up for work, you end up with that frustrating situation where your furnace comes on but blower does not activate - leaving you in the cold despite hearing your furnace running.

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Key Components You'll Be Dealing With

When troubleshooting a silent blower, you'll want to familiarize yourself with these specific parts:

The blower wheel is the actual fan that moves air. Over time, it can become clogged with dust or debris - imagine trying to run with mud-caked shoes! In severe cases, it might even seize up completely.

The bearings allow your blower wheel to spin smoothly. When these wear out, they often announce their distress through squealing or grinding noises before finally giving up and preventing the blower from turning at all.

In older furnace models with belt-driven blowers, a broken or slipping belt can be the culprit. The motor might be running fine, but without that belt connection, the blower stays still.

The thermostat G-wire (that's the green one) specifically controls your fan function. A loose connection here is like a broken telephone line - the message to "start blowing" never arrives.

One of our technicians recently shared a story about a Winter Park homeowner who was completely baffled. "Their furnace was clearly running, but no air was coming out," he told me. "After checking all the usual suspects, I found the G-wire had simply worked itself loose at the control board. One quick reconnection later, warm air was flowing again!"

Normal Heat-Up Sequence—Timing Matters

When your furnace comes on but blower does not start, knowing the normal sequence helps identify where things went wrong:

First, your thermostat sends the "I'm cold!" signal to your furnace. In response, a small fan called the draft inducer starts up, clearing any lingering gas from the combustion chamber - a critical safety step.

Next comes the ignition sequence, where your furnace lights up and begins heating the heat exchanger. This is followed by a patient warm-up period of about 90 seconds while the heat exchanger reaches proper temperature.

Once the heat exchanger warms to between 90-110°F, the fan limit switch gives the green light to your blower. When working correctly, air begins flowing through your vents, delivering that wonderful warmth throughout your home.

When heating is no longer needed, the shutdown sequence begins with the burners turning off first. Your blower continues running until the heat exchanger cools to about 90°F, extracting every bit of warmth before shutting down.

If your furnace comes on but blower does not activate after this warm-up period, something has interrupted this carefully choreographed sequence - and that's what we'll help you troubleshoot in the upcoming sections.

Safety First: Power Down Before You Peek Inside

When your furnace comes on but blower does not work, it's tempting to dive right in and start investigating. I get it – you're cold and want answers fast! But pause for just a moment. Your furnace combines electricity, natural gas, and high temperatures – a combination that demands respect and caution.

Before you remove any panels or touch any components, let's make sure you're protected with these simple safety steps:

First, turn off power to the furnace at your circuit breaker panel. If you're not sure which breaker controls your furnace (they're not always clearly labeled), it's better to switch off the main breaker. Consider this your personal lock-out tag-out procedure – the same safety protocol professionals use.

Next, shut off the gas supply by locating the gas shutoff valve near your furnace. It usually looks like a yellow lever that should be turned perpendicular to the gas line (think of it as crossing out the flow of gas). This step is crucial – you don't want to accidentally release gas while tinkering!

Now, be patient and wait about 30 minutes. This cooling-off period isn't just for the furnace – it gives you time to gather your thoughts and tools while components reach a safe handling temperature.

When you're ready to investigate, remove the furnace door carefully. Most furnaces have a built-in door safety switch that cuts power automatically when opened – a clever feature you should never try to bypass.

Don't forget to wear protective gloves. Those sheet metal edges inside your furnace can be surprisingly sharp, and I've seen too many DIYers nursing unexpected cuts while trying to fix their heating.

One of our experienced technicians in Winter Park told me about a homeowner who skipped these safety steps: "He was in such a rush to get his heat back that he reached inside his powered furnace and got a nasty electrical shock. The irony? The fix was simple, but his emergency room visit delayed the repair by days."

Emergency Shutdown Procedures

Trust your senses. If something seems wrong during your troubleshooting, it probably is. Immediately implement emergency shutdown if you notice:

• A burning smell or visible smoke (electrical components shouldn't smoke!)
• Gas odor resembling rotten eggs (this means gas is leaking)
• Unusual banging, scraping, or whining noises
• Any electrical sparking or arcing
• The furnace cabinet feeling unusually hot to touch

Your emergency shutdown checklist is simple but critical:

1. Turn off your thermostat
2. Flip off the electrical breaker to your furnace
3. Close the gas valve by turning it perpendicular to the pipe
4. If you smell gas, don't hesitate – leave your home immediately
5. From a safe location, call for professional help

Essential Safety Tools you should have nearby include a reliable flashlight (furnace closets are often dark), insulated gloves to protect your hands, a basic multimeter if you're comfortable using one, a carbon monoxide detector to monitor air quality, a non-contact voltage tester to verify power is truly off, and of course, your cell phone in case you need to call for backup.

Remember the wisdom that's saved many DIYers from trouble: when in doubt, back out. Your family's safety and your personal wellbeing are worth more than saving a few hours without heat. Sometimes the smartest fix is knowing when to call a professional.

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DIY Fixes When the Furnace Comes On but Blower Does Not

When your furnace comes on but blower does not run, there's that frustrating moment where you can feel your furnace working, but no warm air circulates through your home. Before calling in the professionals, let's roll up our sleeves and try some DIY solutions that might save you both time and money.

Thermostat & Electrical Checks (Step 1)

Often, the solution is hiding in plain sight. I've visited countless homes where the issue was much simpler than the homeowner feared.

First, take a good look at your thermostat. Is it set to "HEAT" mode? You'd be surprised how often family members accidentally switch settings. Make sure your desired temperature is at least 3-5 degrees above the current room temperature to trigger the heating cycle.

Check that your fan setting is on "AUTO" rather than "ON." When set to "AUTO," the fan should only run during heating cycles—if it's set to "ON" but still not running, we know the issue is with the blower itself.

Dead batteries can cause all sorts of thermostat mischief. Even if your display looks normal, weak batteries can prevent proper communication with your furnace. A quick battery replacement might be all you need.

Next, head to your electrical panel. Find the breaker labeled "Furnace" or "HVAC" and check if it's tripped. Here's a handy tip: even if it doesn't look tripped, toggle it fully off and then back on. Sometimes breakers trip internally without visibly moving to the off position.

Don't forget the furnace power switch! This switch often looks just like a regular light switch and is typically mounted on or near your furnace. It's easily bumped to the "OFF" position during other home maintenance tasks or by curious little ones.

As one of our Winter Garden customers found: "I spent hours worrying about my furnace when the blower wouldn't come on. Turns out, my grandson had flipped the furnace switch while playing. I felt silly, but was relieved it was such an easy fix!"

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Test the Blower Motor & Capacitor (Step 2)

If the basic checks don't solve your problem, it's time to look at the heart of your air circulation system—the blower motor and its capacitor.

With the power completely OFF (this is crucial for safety), remove the furnace door and locate the blower wheel. Try spinning it by hand. A healthy blower wheel should turn freely with minimal resistance. If it feels stuck or grinds when turning, you might have seized bearings or another mechanical issue.

Restore power temporarily and listen carefully. Do you hear a humming sound but see no movement? That's often the telltale sign of a failed capacitor. The capacitor works like a battery that provides the extra boost of power needed to start your blower motor. When it fails, your motor might try to run (hence the humming) but lack the juice to actually start spinning.

Some blower motors come equipped with a thermal overload protection feature in the form of a small red reset button. If your motor has overheated, this safety device may have tripped. With power off, press this button to reset the motor's protection circuit.

For those comfortable with electrical components, you might inspect the capacitor itself. It resembles a small cylinder or oval can, often silver or black. Visual bulging or leaking are clear signs of failure. But please remember—capacitors can store dangerous voltage even when disconnected from power. Never touch the terminals without properly discharging them first.

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Inspect the Fan Limit Switch & Control Board (Step 3)

If your motor and capacitor check out, the issue might lie in the control systems that tell your blower when to run.

The fan limit switch is your furnace's temperature guardian. Typically mounted on the furnace plenum, it has a temperature probe extending into the heat exchanger area. Its job is to prevent the blower from starting until your furnace is warm enough to deliver comfortable air, and to keep the blower running until excess heat has been removed from the system.

With your furnace powered on and heating, this switch should trigger the blower after a brief warm-up period (usually 90 seconds to 3 minutes). If your furnace has been running long enough to get hot but the fan hasn't started, your fan limit switch might be faulty.

Modern furnaces are equipped with smart control boards that can tell you what's wrong—if you know how to read them. Look for LED lights on your furnace's control board. These often blink in specific patterns to indicate error codes. Your furnace manual should include a chart to help you decipher these codes, with common blower-related issues including pressure switch failures or communication errors.

When your thermostat calls for the blower to run, listen carefully for a clicking sound from the control board. This click is the relay that sends power to your blower motor. No click might indicate a control board issue or problems with the thermostat wiring.

One Apopka homeowner shared this success story: "My furnace would heat up but the blower never kicked on. I was ready to call for service when I noticed the small LED on my furnace control board was flashing. I counted the flashes, checked the code chart inside the furnace door, and found it was signaling a problem with the limit switch. Replacing that $20 part solved my problem!"

These DIY checks can often resolve the frustrating situation when your furnace comes on but blower does not work. However, if you've worked through these steps without success, it might be time to call in the professionals at AC's Heating & Air. Sometimes, a trained eye can spot issues that even the most diligent homeowner might miss.

Electrical vs. Mechanical Faults—Know the Difference

When your furnace comes on but blower does not work, figuring out whether you're dealing with an electrical or mechanical problem can save you time, money, and frustration. Think of it like diagnosing a car problem—knowing if it's the battery (electrical) or a flat tire (mechanical) points you in completely different directions.

Electrical Faults

Electrical problems might be invisible to the eye, but they're often the culprits when your furnace comes on but blower does not activate. Think of electrical issues as communication problems—the right messages aren't getting through to make your blower run.

Your blower motor needs proper voltage to run, just like your phone needs a charged battery. If you're experiencing voltage problems, it might be insufficient power reaching the motor, damaged wiring between the control board and motor, or a failed capacitor that can't provide that initial boost the motor needs to start spinning.

Control issues are another common electrical fault. Your furnace's control board is like its brain—if it's not sending the right signals, nothing works properly. This could be due to a faulty control board, a failed relay that's not completing the electrical circuit, or a damaged limit switch that can't detect when the temperature is right for the blower to kick on.

"I was called to a home in Orlando where the homeowner could hear their furnace running but felt no air," shares one of our technicians. "The furnace was heating up just fine, but the signal to start the blower never came because a tiny relay on the control board had failed. It was a $15 part that had left them completely without heat."

Mechanical Faults

Mechanical issues, on the other hand, usually announce themselves with noises or physical symptoms you can observe. These problems typically mean your motor is trying to work but can't due to some physical restriction.

Bearing failures are among the most common mechanical issues. Bearings allow your blower wheel to spin smoothly—when they wear out, they create friction. This can lead to squealing or grinding noises, and in severe cases, the bearings can seize completely, preventing the blower from turning at all.

In older furnaces with belt-driven blowers, belt issues can cause problems. A broken or slipping belt, misaligned pulleys, or a belt that's too loose or too tight can all prevent your blower from working properly even when the motor is running.

Your blower wheel itself might be the problem too. Physical obstructions, a cracked or damaged wheel, or a wheel that's separated from the motor shaft can all lead to situations where your furnace comes on but blower does not operate correctly.

One of our Winter Park customers shared this experience: "My furnace was making the strangest scraping sound whenever it tried to start. Turns out a small toy had somehow made its way into the blower compartment. Once removed, everything worked perfectly again!"

Understanding these differences helps you communicate more effectively with your HVAC technician—or might even help you fix simple problems yourself. Just remember that electrical issues often require specialized knowledge to repair safely, while mechanical problems might need specific parts or tools.

Advanced Diagnostics for Persistent Blower Silence

When basic troubleshooting hasn't solved your furnace comes on but blower does not problem, it's time to roll up your sleeves for some deeper detective work. While these advanced steps might seem intimidating, understanding them will help you have more productive conversations with your HVAC professional if you need to call one in.

Think of your multimeter as your trusty sidekick in this heating mystery. When your furnace comes on but blower does not activate, this tool can reveal what's happening electrically. With the right settings, you can check if voltage is reaching the blower (should be around 120V after warm-up), test for continuity through motor windings (looking for 7-10 ohms of resistance), and measure current draw to spot mechanical binding or capacitor issues.

Electricity demands respect! Always turn off power when testing components directly, and be especially careful with capacitors, which can hold a charge even when the system is powered down.

"Furnace comes on but blower does not" — Capacitor & Motor Bench Test

Your blower's capacitor is like a battery that provides the extra jolt needed to start the motor spinning. When your furnace comes on but blower does not start, a failed capacitor is often the culprit.

Before touching any capacitor, you must discharge it safely using a 20,000-ohm resistor across the terminals. This isn't optional—capacitors can deliver a nasty shock even when the furnace is unplugged! Once discharged, you can test the capacitor using a dedicated tester or a multimeter with capacitance function. The microfarad (μF) reading should match what's printed on the capacitor itself (within 10%).

For the mechanically inclined homeowner, removing the blower motor for bench testing can be revealing. By disconnecting it from the furnace and testing it independently with the proper power supply and capacitor, you can determine if the issue is with the motor itself or with the furnace's control systems.

As one of our Orlando customers found: "I was at my wit's end with my cold house. Your technician showed me my capacitor was reading just 3 microfarads when it should have been 7.5. After he replaced that small part, warm air started flowing immediately!"

"Furnace comes on but blower does not" — Control Board & Wiring Trace

Sometimes the problem isn't the blower itself but the signals telling it when to run. When your furnace comes on but blower does not activate, the control board or wiring might be at fault.

A simple G-wire jump test can tell you volumes. By connecting a small wire between the R and G terminals on your control board, you're essentially bypassing the thermostat and directly telling the fan to run. If the blower starts, your thermostat or the wiring to it needs attention. If nothing happens, the issue lies within the furnace itself.

Listen carefully for the click of relays on the control board when your thermostat calls for fan operation. No click? The board may not be receiving the signal or the relay might be stuck. You can confirm by measuring voltage at the relay output terminals.

Wiring problems can be sneaky culprits too. Look for loose connections, burnt or discolored wires, or even chew marks from curious rodents. The G-wire circuit deserves special attention since it directly controls fan operation.

"Control boards often speak their own language through flash codes," explains our lead technician. "For instance, a sequence of 5 flashes on many furnaces points to a pressure switch problem, which can prevent the blower from running even though the furnace has ignited. Learning to read these codes is like having the furnace tell you exactly what's wrong."

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When to Skip DIY and Call an HVAC Pro

Let's be honest – there's a certain pride in fixing your own furnace problems. But when your furnace comes on but blower does not work, sometimes the smartest move is knowing when to put down the tools and pick up the phone. Not every heating issue is DIY-friendly, and recognizing these situations can save you time, money, and potentially prevent a bigger headache.

Your furnace is essentially telling you it needs professional attention when you notice persistent error codes that don't clear up after your troubleshooting efforts. These blinking lights aren't just for show – they're your system's way of communicating specific problems that often require specialized knowledge to address.

Electrical concerns should always raise red flags. If you detect burning smells, see any sparking, or notice your circuit breaker repeatedly tripping when the furnace runs, step away immediately. One Winter Garden homeowner shared: "I smelled something burning while investigating why my furnace comes on but blower does not start. I called AC's Heating & Air right away, and thank goodness I did – their tech found rodent-damaged wiring that could have caused a fire."

Your ears can also tell you when it's time for professional help. Unusual grinding or metal-on-metal scraping sounds aren't just annoying – they're warning signs of mechanical failures that typically require expert repair. Excessive vibration or booming noises during operation similarly suggest problems beyond basic DIY fixes.

Component replacement is another area where professional expertise becomes invaluable. While replacing an air filter is straightforward, swapping out a blower motor, control board, or handling complex electrical repairs requires specialized tools, knowledge, and safety precautions that most homeowners simply don't have.

The age of your system matters too. If your furnace has celebrated its 15th birthday, recurring issues like a non-functioning blower may signal it's time for a broader conversation about replacement versus repair. Multiple components failing simultaneously or visible rust and corrosion inside the cabinet are nature's way of suggesting retirement for your heating system.

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Cost-Benefit: Motor Swap vs Full Furnace Upgrade

When facing a significant repair like replacing a blower motor, it's worth stepping back to consider the bigger picture. Is fixing this one component the best financial decision, or might a full system upgrade make more sense?

Blower motors typically last as long as the furnace itself – about 15-20 years. If your system is approaching this age milestone, investing in a major repair might feel like putting expensive new tires on a car you're planning to sell next month. Sometimes the smarter move is to consider a complete replacement, especially when other components are likely nearing the end of their useful life too.

Today's furnaces are significantly more efficient than models from even a decade ago. Modern systems achieve 90-98% AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency), while older units typically operate at just 70-80% efficiency. This difference translates directly to your utility bills – a new system can help offset its own cost through energy savings.

Technology has also leaped forward. Variable-speed blowers in newer furnaces provide more consistent comfort while using less energy. Advanced control systems offer improved reliability with helpful diagnostic capabilities when issues do arise. Many newer models also work seamlessly with smart thermostats, giving you better control over your home environment and energy usage.

"When I diagnose a blower motor failure in an older furnace," explains our Celebration-based technician, "I always present both repair and replacement options. While replacing just the motor costs less upfront, customers who choose a full system upgrade typically end up more satisfied in the long run – especially when they see their monthly energy bills drop with a high-efficiency system."

The decision ultimately comes down to thinking about long-term value versus short-term costs. A repair might be less expensive today, but a new system brings warranty protection, reduced energy consumption, fewer future repairs, and often noticeably improved comfort throughout your home.

Scientific research on efficiency

Frequently Asked Questions About Blower Failures

Why does my blower motor hum but not spin?

That frustrating humming sound when your furnace comes on but blower does not spin is like your car engine turning over but never starting. In most cases, this musical-but-motionless motor points directly to a failed capacitor. Think of the capacitor as your motor's morning coffee – it provides that electrical jolt needed to get things moving. Without it, your motor can hear the call to action (hence the humming) but simply doesn't have the energy to get up and go.

If you're comfortable doing some troubleshooting, here's what to check:

First, turn off power to your furnace completely. Safety first! Next, locate that capacitor – it's typically a cylinder or oval-shaped component hanging out near the blower motor. Look for telltale signs of failure: bulging sides, oily leakage, or a top that's no longer flat.

"I once visited a home in Apopka where the homeowner described their furnace as 'singing but not dancing,'" shares one of our technicians. "One look at their capacitor – swollen like a balloon – told the whole story. After a quick replacement, their blower was back to waltzing warm air through the home."

Remember though, capacitors store electrical charge even when powered down – they're like little batteries ready to zap the unsuspecting. If you're not comfortable handling electrical components, this is definitely a job best left for the professionals.

How often should I replace the furnace air filter to avoid blower issues?

Your air filter is the unsung hero preventing scenarios where your furnace comes on but blower does not work. A clean filter is to your blower what clear arteries are to your heart – essential for proper function without unnecessary strain.

Most homeowners are shocked to learn how quickly filters can clog, especially in Florida homes where our sandy soil and year-round pollen create a perfect storm for filter overload. Basic 1-inch filters typically need changing every 30-60 days, while pleated medium-efficiency filters might last 60-90 days. High-efficiency filters can sometimes go 6-12 months, but always follow manufacturer recommendations.

If you have pets shedding their winter coats or live on a dusty road, you'll need to check filters more frequently. As Maria from Winter Garden found: "After adopting two golden retrievers, I couldn't figure out why my furnace kept struggling until my technician showed me my filter – completely clogged with fur in just three weeks!"

"About a third of the blower failures we repair could have been prevented with regular filter changes," notes our service manager. "It's a five-dollar solution that prevents five-hundred-dollar problems."

Is it safe to press the red reset button every time the blower stops?

That little red reset button on your blower motor is not meant to be a regular part of your heating routine. If you find yourself pushing it repeatedly when your furnace comes on but blower does not run, you're treating the symptom while ignoring a potentially dangerous underlying condition.

Think of this button as your motor's fever alarm. It trips when the motor overheats to prevent permanent damage – much like your body raising its temperature to fight infection. Occasionally hitting this reset during extreme weather isn't concerning, but regularly needing to press it signals something's wrong.

The usual suspects behind chronic overheating include:- Restricted airflow from dirty filters or blocked vents- Failing bearings creating excess friction (often accompanied by scraping sounds)- Electrical problems causing the motor to work harder than designed- Inadequate motor cooling from dust buildup

"I had one customer in Winter Park who kept a pencil by their furnace specifically for pushing that reset button," recalls our senior technician. "By the time they called us, the motor windings were already damaged from repeated overheating. What could have been a simple repair became a complete blower replacement."

Repeatedly resetting without addressing the root cause is like taking painkillers for a broken arm without getting it set – temporary relief that allows the underlying problem to worsen. If you've pressed that button more than once this season, it's definitely time to call in the professionals before more serious damage occurs.

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Conclusion

When your furnace comes on but blower does not activate, you're left with that frustrating feeling of being so close yet so far from comfort. Your furnace is running—you can hear it ignite—but without that crucial final step of the blower circulating the warm air, your home remains chilly despite your best efforts.

Throughout this guide, we've walked through the journey from simple DIY checks to more advanced troubleshooting. Whether it was examining your thermostat settings, replacing that forgotten air filter, or testing electrical components, each step brings you closer to restoring warmth to your home. Your safety should always take priority—gas and electricity aren't forgiving of careless mistakes.

I've seen countless Central Florida homeowners face this exact issue, and the relief on their faces when warm air finally starts flowing through their vents again is priceless. Sometimes it's as simple as flipping a switch that was accidentally turned off, while other times it requires replacing a worn-out component that's been faithfully serving your home for years.

The best way to avoid finding yourself shivering beside a half-working furnace is through consistent maintenance. Regular filter changes, annual professional inspections, and addressing those small unusual noises or behaviors before they become full-blown failures will save you both discomfort and money in the long run.

Here in Central Florida, we may not face the extreme cold of northern states, but those chilly winter nights still demand a properly functioning heating system. Our team at AC's Heating & Air has been proudly serving Apopka, Winter Park, Orlando, Winter Garden, and surrounding communities for years, helping homeowners just like you restore comfort when blower issues strike.

If you've worked through our troubleshooting steps and still find yourself with a furnace that ignites but won't blow air, don't spend another night bundled under extra blankets. Our experienced technicians are just a phone call away, ready to provide the expertise needed to diagnose and resolve even the most stubborn blower problems.

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Whether it's a simple fix you handle yourself or a complex issue requiring professional assistance, addressing furnace blower problems promptly ensures your home stays the comfortable haven it should be—even during the coolest Florida nights. We're standing by to help keep the warm air flowing throughout your home with same-day service when you need it most.